This summer we went for a trip to Shimla & Manali assectionectionnd have thought of writing a blog of our experiences, which might help many in simple planning with least expenditure possible.
First things first - I'm comfortable in speaking Hindi. This statement of mine would help you to judge better on whether to follow my little advices embedded below!
Second - Before embarking our journey, we planned to avail no guide, entertain no tourist vehicles wheresoever. In short, we journeyed only by our choices with a smartphone and net in hand :)
Third - Right time to tour Manali - as far as I heard, February is for persons who love to see snow everywhere, March is somewhat bright with snow in some parts, April - June is the most crowded time as people in Delhi flock to Shimla and Manali to get a break from scorching summer. Also, you get to see apples everywhere. Even in May, June you can go to Rohtang Pass, Manali to play in snow. Rest of the months, I guess it's not preferred much owing to rains and heavy snow (not very sure though)
Day2 (Sunday)-- On arriving at Delhi station, we had our breakfast at Comesum restaurant on the first platform. South Indian menu at this restaurant is comparatively expensive. After finishing off our breakfast, waited in the station for Paschim Express (during my time of writing this page, train would arrive at 11 am in New Delhi and reach Kalka at 4:45 pm). Sadly there were no A/C berths available during booking so ended up traveling in sleeper class. Sleeper class journey is the worst during summers, so I strictly advice to travel by A/C only (no I'm not talking the temperature issue, it's because many people who travel to nearby cities get in to sleeper class bogies and cause inconvenience (Railways hamara baap ka hai na !! ) ). Finally reached Kalka at 5pm.
Just outside the station, you can get an auto to reach Kalka bus stand which is very nearby. Better to take an auto (he charged us Rs.40 and is reasonable). At bus stand, there is no need to enter inside the bus stand as only Haryana State buses would halt inside. We have to take Himachal Pradesh Road Transport Corporation (HRTC) buses to Shimla, which generally stop on the road opposite bus stand. Meanwhile, you can have a bite of veg hot dogs at the tela near the bus stop - it's just amazing!
On boarded bus to Shimla (don't remember ticket price exactly but I guess around 150/- per head). This journey by bus is awesome. It was very cold while we traveled. Reached Shimla around 10 pm and took a taxi to hotel Rock Heaven (we booked hotel through Expedia website. Charges Rs.806/night. 2 nights. Including taxes - Rs.1731).
Taxi wallah charged 500 bucks and given the distance of the hotel from bus stand, the rate charged is best rate. Received with smile by Hotel Receptionist (I ended up at this hotel by reading reviews at Trip Advisor - people said best hotel at medium prices). Hotel room is good (actually you may want to book other rooms which face the Shimla valley at Rs.1400/- night, but we felt even the 800 bucks room is okay). You can opt for room heaters (they will charge you 150 bucks for 24 hrs. Irrespective of temperature, it's better to order one as Shimla turns too cold in the night, which is unbearable). Hotel serves good spicy veg and non veg dishes and we preferred vegetarian menu.
Day3 (Monday) -- In the morning, had breakfast at the hotel (better go for combo offer rather than individual menus which is costlier). After that, took a taxi to reach Mall (by the way getting a taxi or bus at this hotel is bit difficult. We had to wait on the road opposite hotel for 30 mins to get an RTC bus to Shimla). Buses in Shimla are cheapest mode of transport and felt the residents of Shimla are very helpful to tourists unlike other places in India. Taxi wallah stopped us at the entrance of Mall road and we took a small walk up hill from there.
Mall road has mainly shops and I bought a woolen shirt which I forgot to carry before the journey. Mall road has some scenic spots - Scandal point, Town Hall etc. We just got a glimpse and few clicks here and then moved towards The Ridge, up hill from Mall road. Here we had some photographs in local dress (they charge around 80 bucks per pic and deliver after 1-2 hrs). During the wait period for photos delivery, we walked down the ridge towards Nepali shops, located a bit below the Ridge. We can find lots of woolen clothes at cheap prices here. After gulping some tea and momos proceeded to collect our photographs at Ridge. After that came to bus stand by walk. Took RTC bus to Kufri - journey was good.
At Kurfi took 2 horses for ride (500 bucks per couple) and gum boots for 200 bucks per couple(believe me, these shoes are hardly of any use if it's not raining). Horse ride is the best experience of our trip. They take you to top of hill, where after getting down the horse, you visit Shiv Mandir. Gulped some Maggi and tea, which was of best taste. You can opt for a telescope to see the distant palaces in Himalayas (charges 80 bucks per couple). Later came down the hill on horses. There took a taxi who dropped us in a nearby junction (100 bucks). Took RTC bus to Dhalli (in fact you can take taxi from Kufri to Dhalli directly). From Dhalli took bus towards Naldehra and Tatapani and got down at Rock Heaven hotel.
Day4 (Tuesday) -- Checked out Rock Heaven hotel. Took bus to Shimla by standing on road right opposite Rock Heaven hotel. During our ride, we got to see the beautiful Green Valley of Shimla! Then at bus stand took the pre-booked bus on HRTC website to Manali. Journey by bus to Manali was good. Finally landed in Manali around 7-8 pm. By the way bus goes through Kullu and I felt Kullu wasn't that interesting than Manali except for river rafting options (I might be wrong about my opinion on Kullu). After landing in Manali took auto to Rohtang Manalsu (we booked 3 nights, 4 days package by paying price for 2 nights and 3 days only - there was a offer while booking). Auto wallah charged 40 bucks. Had dinner at the hotel.
Day5 (Wednesday) -- Woke up and had complimentary breakfast at hotel (by the way they served us buffet breakfast, which was decent). Later took a cab arranged by hotel management (actually our cab driver happens to be brother of the hotel management admin guy) to Solang Valley, which is some 14kms from the hotel. We agreed to book cab for 800 bucks. Actually Rohtang Pass is a bigger tourist attraction than Solang Valley but Rohtang Pass was closed for visitors due to heavy snow fall occurring then. Got into cab and the ride was awesome - going through tiny streets of Manali and moving opposite to Beas river. In the middle of our journey, cab wallah stopped us at a skiing dress shop - we got skiing dress along with guide arranged for 3000 bucks. Along with it got a pair of glasses for 300 bucks. Our suggestion is that glasses are unnecessary, guide is unnecessary and in fact skiing is unnecessary option. We dreamed of giant skiing experience, but to our dismay skiing area is hardly 100 meters on flat snow which is filled with dirt. So better get rid of skiing completely. Instead you can opt for the dress alone - for couple it should be just 800 bucks on rent (in fact if you are cautious enough, you can buy the dress on footpaths on Mall Road, Manali for 300 bucks per individual. In total just 600 bucks!).
After reaching Solang Valley you'll find there are far better options than skiing - paragliding, horse riding etc. Played in snow for a while. Forgot to mention about photographs! You will be tortured by your guide for getting photographs and they will charge you off the roof prices. Our suggestion - ask him that you don't want any hard copies but only soft copies in CD. He will charge you 500 bucks for 100 photos which is the best bargain. Do remember that you need not avail guide at all, except if you are opting for skiing which is of bad experience. Had hot Maggi (50 bucks! but given the height at which u r eating Maggi, it's reasonable!!) Bought Saffron Flowers at 300 bucks for 10 grams which is best bargain and is of decent quality. After taking photograph CD, came back to hotel in cab - in middle cab driver stops at the shop where u got the dress on rent. Later in the evening, walked around Mall road for shopping. Our experience says that the shop exactly opposite to Rohtang Manalsu hotel gives the best bargain for woolen clothes than any other shop on Mall Road. Had fantastic dinner at Wood Rock hotel, then returned to Rohtang Manalsu.
Day6 (Thursday) -- Woke up and had complimentary breakfast at hotel and walked toward Hidimba Devi temple which is hardly 1 km from the hotel. It's a must see place in Manali. Later walked down to hotel and then had hot paranthas served at a small hotel exactly opposite to Rohtang Manalsu - food is cheap and best taste. Then walked towards club house which is around 2 km from Rohtang Manalsu. It was raining that day and there wasn't much to do for us at the club house. But I think it has a pub in the evenings and boat ride in noon and on non-rainy days. So our suggestion is you visit club house in the evenings. It's not that great place but if you have kids, then it's good bet. Meanwhile have enquired about bike-on-rent facilities, they said they would charge 1500 bucks with some litres of petrol pre-filled. So if you were to visit Solang Valley and if it's not raining or snowing in Manali, renting a bike is a good option. Later returned to Mall road and did some more shopping and came back to hotel.
Day7 (Friday) - Woke up and had complimentary breakfast and then cleared our bills (includes dinner and service tax of hotel, which they said was not collected earlier during booking as offer is separate from taxes) - this totaled 2000 bucks. Settled down previous day's taxi bill, 800 bucks with taxi driver's brother at desk. We didn't have much luggage, so walked easily to private bus stop (some 2 kms from hotel) and got into pre booked bus on www.redbus.in to New Delhi. Journey was good except the intermediate stop for having dinner.
Day8 (Saturday) - Bus wallah desperately stopped the bus at outskirts of Delhi so that we can get into autos of their choice. If you are new to New Delhi, don't get fooled and instead find a nearby bus stop and walk towards it or just ask any auto wallah to take you to the nearest bus stop. Never ask them to drop at far destinations as they would rob you off your money. Took a bus to India Gate after inquiring some at the stop about the bus number. Got few clicks at India Gate and then took an auto to Andhra Bhavan which is on Ashoka Road, which is not very far off from India Gate (auto charge is around 50 bucks). If you were to visit Andhra Bhavan, be there before 12:30 pm as you to WAIT in big queue for meals. After having lunch, took rest in waiting hall with permission from security personnel over there. Later in the evening proceeded to Nizamuddin Railway Station - strict advice is not to buy anything outside station premises as there is high chance of getting cheated.
Day9 (Sunday) -- Back in Hyderabad and the beautiful journey ends!!
As you might have read above, we missed our goal of not availing tourist cabs by taking ride to Solang Valley - in fact we've learnt that tourist cab operators maintain a good network of vendors and facilities, which are hardly of any value and pupose!! Total expenditure including train reservations, bookings and decent shopping came around 28,000 bucks (which we think is very cheap compared to availing tourism packages!! Even if the package says 30,000 you will easily cough up 15k to 20k more owing to planned stops at network shops/facilities by package operator)
Here's a quick recap of pre-requisties:
> Book your train/flight tickets in advance (in summer, you have to book AC trains only)
> Book Rock Heaven or other hotels either through Expedia website or by calling the hotel directly and book your rooms in advance
> Book bus tickets from Shimla to Manali in advance at www.hrtc.gov.in/hrtctickets/
> Book bus tickets from Manali to Delhi through www.redbus.in
> Book Rohtang Manalsu or hotel in Manali of your choice (for Rohtang Manalsu, you can book through HPTDC website http://www.hptdc.nic.in/cir0203.htm and check availability at http://hptdc.gov.in/custsw/viewuser8_hot.asp?dest=036) , if you get some offers feel lucky :)
> Don't entertain skiing option in Manali !!
> Woolen clothing irrespective of season down south.
> Preloaded movies in your tablet/mobile :)
> And a printout/bookmark of this post, if you feel useful :)
First things first - I'm comfortable in speaking Hindi. This statement of mine would help you to judge better on whether to follow my little advices embedded below!
Second - Before embarking our journey, we planned to avail no guide, entertain no tourist vehicles wheresoever. In short, we journeyed only by our choices with a smartphone and net in hand :)
Third - Right time to tour Manali - as far as I heard, February is for persons who love to see snow everywhere, March is somewhat bright with snow in some parts, April - June is the most crowded time as people in Delhi flock to Shimla and Manali to get a break from scorching summer. Also, you get to see apples everywhere. Even in May, June you can go to Rohtang Pass, Manali to play in snow. Rest of the months, I guess it's not preferred much owing to rains and heavy snow (not very sure though)
Day1 (Saturday) -- Our journey begins in Hyderabad in the fag end of March. Have booked 2nd AC tickets in Rajdhani express (Hyderabad to Delhi). Train left around 7am. As many might be aware, Rajdhani serves food items inside with a planned menu at no extra costs - in short food comes free with your ticket. Also we have dedicated charging slots for phones and laptops - so our entire journey was by watching preloaded movies in my smartphone. Food served in the train was decent so there was hardly any need to get off the train on intermediate stations. Finally landed in New Delhi station on Sunday morning.
Day2 (Sunday)-- On arriving at Delhi station, we had our breakfast at Comesum restaurant on the first platform. South Indian menu at this restaurant is comparatively expensive. After finishing off our breakfast, waited in the station for Paschim Express (during my time of writing this page, train would arrive at 11 am in New Delhi and reach Kalka at 4:45 pm). Sadly there were no A/C berths available during booking so ended up traveling in sleeper class. Sleeper class journey is the worst during summers, so I strictly advice to travel by A/C only (no I'm not talking the temperature issue, it's because many people who travel to nearby cities get in to sleeper class bogies and cause inconvenience (Railways hamara baap ka hai na !! ) ). Finally reached Kalka at 5pm.
Just outside the station, you can get an auto to reach Kalka bus stand which is very nearby. Better to take an auto (he charged us Rs.40 and is reasonable). At bus stand, there is no need to enter inside the bus stand as only Haryana State buses would halt inside. We have to take Himachal Pradesh Road Transport Corporation (HRTC) buses to Shimla, which generally stop on the road opposite bus stand. Meanwhile, you can have a bite of veg hot dogs at the tela near the bus stop - it's just amazing!
On boarded bus to Shimla (don't remember ticket price exactly but I guess around 150/- per head). This journey by bus is awesome. It was very cold while we traveled. Reached Shimla around 10 pm and took a taxi to hotel Rock Heaven (we booked hotel through Expedia website. Charges Rs.806/night. 2 nights. Including taxes - Rs.1731).
Taxi wallah charged 500 bucks and given the distance of the hotel from bus stand, the rate charged is best rate. Received with smile by Hotel Receptionist (I ended up at this hotel by reading reviews at Trip Advisor - people said best hotel at medium prices). Hotel room is good (actually you may want to book other rooms which face the Shimla valley at Rs.1400/- night, but we felt even the 800 bucks room is okay). You can opt for room heaters (they will charge you 150 bucks for 24 hrs. Irrespective of temperature, it's better to order one as Shimla turns too cold in the night, which is unbearable). Hotel serves good spicy veg and non veg dishes and we preferred vegetarian menu.
Day3 (Monday) -- In the morning, had breakfast at the hotel (better go for combo offer rather than individual menus which is costlier). After that, took a taxi to reach Mall (by the way getting a taxi or bus at this hotel is bit difficult. We had to wait on the road opposite hotel for 30 mins to get an RTC bus to Shimla). Buses in Shimla are cheapest mode of transport and felt the residents of Shimla are very helpful to tourists unlike other places in India. Taxi wallah stopped us at the entrance of Mall road and we took a small walk up hill from there.
Mall road has mainly shops and I bought a woolen shirt which I forgot to carry before the journey. Mall road has some scenic spots - Scandal point, Town Hall etc. We just got a glimpse and few clicks here and then moved towards The Ridge, up hill from Mall road. Here we had some photographs in local dress (they charge around 80 bucks per pic and deliver after 1-2 hrs). During the wait period for photos delivery, we walked down the ridge towards Nepali shops, located a bit below the Ridge. We can find lots of woolen clothes at cheap prices here. After gulping some tea and momos proceeded to collect our photographs at Ridge. After that came to bus stand by walk. Took RTC bus to Kufri - journey was good.
At Kurfi took 2 horses for ride (500 bucks per couple) and gum boots for 200 bucks per couple(believe me, these shoes are hardly of any use if it's not raining). Horse ride is the best experience of our trip. They take you to top of hill, where after getting down the horse, you visit Shiv Mandir. Gulped some Maggi and tea, which was of best taste. You can opt for a telescope to see the distant palaces in Himalayas (charges 80 bucks per couple). Later came down the hill on horses. There took a taxi who dropped us in a nearby junction (100 bucks). Took RTC bus to Dhalli (in fact you can take taxi from Kufri to Dhalli directly). From Dhalli took bus towards Naldehra and Tatapani and got down at Rock Heaven hotel.
Day4 (Tuesday) -- Checked out Rock Heaven hotel. Took bus to Shimla by standing on road right opposite Rock Heaven hotel. During our ride, we got to see the beautiful Green Valley of Shimla! Then at bus stand took the pre-booked bus on HRTC website to Manali. Journey by bus to Manali was good. Finally landed in Manali around 7-8 pm. By the way bus goes through Kullu and I felt Kullu wasn't that interesting than Manali except for river rafting options (I might be wrong about my opinion on Kullu). After landing in Manali took auto to Rohtang Manalsu (we booked 3 nights, 4 days package by paying price for 2 nights and 3 days only - there was a offer while booking). Auto wallah charged 40 bucks. Had dinner at the hotel.
Day5 (Wednesday) -- Woke up and had complimentary breakfast at hotel (by the way they served us buffet breakfast, which was decent). Later took a cab arranged by hotel management (actually our cab driver happens to be brother of the hotel management admin guy) to Solang Valley, which is some 14kms from the hotel. We agreed to book cab for 800 bucks. Actually Rohtang Pass is a bigger tourist attraction than Solang Valley but Rohtang Pass was closed for visitors due to heavy snow fall occurring then. Got into cab and the ride was awesome - going through tiny streets of Manali and moving opposite to Beas river. In the middle of our journey, cab wallah stopped us at a skiing dress shop - we got skiing dress along with guide arranged for 3000 bucks. Along with it got a pair of glasses for 300 bucks. Our suggestion is that glasses are unnecessary, guide is unnecessary and in fact skiing is unnecessary option. We dreamed of giant skiing experience, but to our dismay skiing area is hardly 100 meters on flat snow which is filled with dirt. So better get rid of skiing completely. Instead you can opt for the dress alone - for couple it should be just 800 bucks on rent (in fact if you are cautious enough, you can buy the dress on footpaths on Mall Road, Manali for 300 bucks per individual. In total just 600 bucks!).
After reaching Solang Valley you'll find there are far better options than skiing - paragliding, horse riding etc. Played in snow for a while. Forgot to mention about photographs! You will be tortured by your guide for getting photographs and they will charge you off the roof prices. Our suggestion - ask him that you don't want any hard copies but only soft copies in CD. He will charge you 500 bucks for 100 photos which is the best bargain. Do remember that you need not avail guide at all, except if you are opting for skiing which is of bad experience. Had hot Maggi (50 bucks! but given the height at which u r eating Maggi, it's reasonable!!) Bought Saffron Flowers at 300 bucks for 10 grams which is best bargain and is of decent quality. After taking photograph CD, came back to hotel in cab - in middle cab driver stops at the shop where u got the dress on rent. Later in the evening, walked around Mall road for shopping. Our experience says that the shop exactly opposite to Rohtang Manalsu hotel gives the best bargain for woolen clothes than any other shop on Mall Road. Had fantastic dinner at Wood Rock hotel, then returned to Rohtang Manalsu.
Day6 (Thursday) -- Woke up and had complimentary breakfast at hotel and walked toward Hidimba Devi temple which is hardly 1 km from the hotel. It's a must see place in Manali. Later walked down to hotel and then had hot paranthas served at a small hotel exactly opposite to Rohtang Manalsu - food is cheap and best taste. Then walked towards club house which is around 2 km from Rohtang Manalsu. It was raining that day and there wasn't much to do for us at the club house. But I think it has a pub in the evenings and boat ride in noon and on non-rainy days. So our suggestion is you visit club house in the evenings. It's not that great place but if you have kids, then it's good bet. Meanwhile have enquired about bike-on-rent facilities, they said they would charge 1500 bucks with some litres of petrol pre-filled. So if you were to visit Solang Valley and if it's not raining or snowing in Manali, renting a bike is a good option. Later returned to Mall road and did some more shopping and came back to hotel.
Day7 (Friday) - Woke up and had complimentary breakfast and then cleared our bills (includes dinner and service tax of hotel, which they said was not collected earlier during booking as offer is separate from taxes) - this totaled 2000 bucks. Settled down previous day's taxi bill, 800 bucks with taxi driver's brother at desk. We didn't have much luggage, so walked easily to private bus stop (some 2 kms from hotel) and got into pre booked bus on www.redbus.in to New Delhi. Journey was good except the intermediate stop for having dinner.
Day8 (Saturday) - Bus wallah desperately stopped the bus at outskirts of Delhi so that we can get into autos of their choice. If you are new to New Delhi, don't get fooled and instead find a nearby bus stop and walk towards it or just ask any auto wallah to take you to the nearest bus stop. Never ask them to drop at far destinations as they would rob you off your money. Took a bus to India Gate after inquiring some at the stop about the bus number. Got few clicks at India Gate and then took an auto to Andhra Bhavan which is on Ashoka Road, which is not very far off from India Gate (auto charge is around 50 bucks). If you were to visit Andhra Bhavan, be there before 12:30 pm as you to WAIT in big queue for meals. After having lunch, took rest in waiting hall with permission from security personnel over there. Later in the evening proceeded to Nizamuddin Railway Station - strict advice is not to buy anything outside station premises as there is high chance of getting cheated.
Day9 (Sunday) -- Back in Hyderabad and the beautiful journey ends!!
As you might have read above, we missed our goal of not availing tourist cabs by taking ride to Solang Valley - in fact we've learnt that tourist cab operators maintain a good network of vendors and facilities, which are hardly of any value and pupose!! Total expenditure including train reservations, bookings and decent shopping came around 28,000 bucks (which we think is very cheap compared to availing tourism packages!! Even if the package says 30,000 you will easily cough up 15k to 20k more owing to planned stops at network shops/facilities by package operator)
Here's a quick recap of pre-requisties:
> Book your train/flight tickets in advance (in summer, you have to book AC trains only)
> Book Rock Heaven or other hotels either through Expedia website or by calling the hotel directly and book your rooms in advance
> Book bus tickets from Shimla to Manali in advance at www.hrtc.gov.in/hrtctickets/
> Book bus tickets from Manali to Delhi through www.redbus.in
> Book Rohtang Manalsu or hotel in Manali of your choice (for Rohtang Manalsu, you can book through HPTDC website http://www.hptdc.nic.in/cir0203.htm and check availability at http://hptdc.gov.in/custsw/viewuser8_hot.asp?dest=036) , if you get some offers feel lucky :)
> Don't entertain skiing option in Manali !!
> Woolen clothing irrespective of season down south.
> Preloaded movies in your tablet/mobile :)
> And a printout/bookmark of this post, if you feel useful :)
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Your inputs helped us planning our trip. We are touring in coming July. Thanks
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